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<!-- google_ad_section_start -->African House Snakes(Lamprophis fuliginosus)<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
African House Snakes(Lamprophis fuliginosus)
Published by StuartDodsworth
10-08-2006
African House Snakes(Lamprophis fuliginosus)




Pics of 'Lace' and 'Albino' phase provided by Najaboy




Distribution

This medium sized colubrid is one of the most widespread of the snakes in Africa. They are present in almost every type of habitat, although they are not present in dense forests or the driest deserts.


Size

Hatchling House Snakes vary from 15 - 25cm (6 - 10 inches) in length. When adult the sexes are dimorphic, the males rarely exceed 90cm (3 feet) in length, whereas the females usually reach between 90 - 120cm (3 - 4 feet) in length. Females attaining sizes longer than 150cm (5 feet) are not unheard of.


Diet

House snakes will eat just about anything, including each other - even the hatchlings have been known to be cannibalistic. Their diet in the wild contains rodents, lizards, amphibians, birds, bird eggs and even bats. In captivity they should be fed appropriately sized rodents and occasionally birds. An adult should be fed roughly every ten days.


N.B.

House snakes are meant to be thin snakes and have been known to die from attempts at eating small rats (which are too big for most).



Requirements

Heat Source: This can be either reflector (spot) lights in green, blue or red. Ceramic or tubular heaters can also be used, although heat mats are a useful alternative.


Ultra Violet Light Source: Although there is a lot of controversy regarding the use of UV supplementation regarding snakes, many herpetologists wouldn't be without one. It has therefore been included in this care sheet as a suggestion and the recommended type for snakes until further scientific research proves otherwise is a 2.0% UV light, which should be left on for 8 - 12 hours a day. If you decide to use a UV with your snake, care should be taken if your snake is albino as the light intensity could have detrimental effects on the eyes of your snake. Vitamin D3 supplements should also be kept to a minimum.


Thermostat: An essential part of every vivarium and is required to control the heat inside the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.


Housing: This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with a glass frontage and adequate ventilation.
Hatchlings would require a small hatchling tub (a pen pal is suitable). This should be left within a larger vivarium. An adult snake can be housed quite happily within a vivarium measuring 90cm long by 45cm deep by 45cm high (36 inches by 18 inches by 18 inches). The main guide to follow is that the vivarium should be no less than half the snakes body length. N.B. - African House Snakes can be cannibalistic and should be housed separately.


Wire Mesh Guards: These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.


Thermometers: One should be placed at either end of the vivarium.


Hides: These should always be provided to help prevent the snakes from becoming stressed.


Water: These animals require a container which they can bathe in without constriction. This water should be changed on a daily basis as it is also the water they drink.


Temperature

A background temperature of 29 - 31°C (84 - 86°F) is required. A basking area covering one third of the vivarium should be allowed to reach temperatures of 33 - 34°C (88 - 90°F). At night time the temperature may be allowed to drop to 27°C (80°F) although this is not recommended if your snake is suffering from any respiratory infections.


Longevity

These snakes can live up to about 15 years, although snakes older than this are not uncommon.


Substrate

This can be anything from newspaper, brown paper or even astro turf. Whatever you use, remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease.



Salmonella

Many reptiles carry the naturally forming bacteria Salmonella. It must be stated that salmonella bacteria can only be contracted by ingestion (via the mouth). Good hygiene is therefore very important when keeping any animal.

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  #1 (permalink)  
gwen524 on 12-08-2006, 02:18 AM
Butdo these snakes have good temperments?
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Gaujo on 03-10-2007, 06:52 AM
Yes.
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  #3 (permalink)  
BWSmith on 03-10-2007, 06:55 AM
As far as temperament, they are basically brown Corn Snakes.
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Reptile freak on 12-03-2007, 05:11 PM
Re: African House Snakes(Lamprophis fuliginosus)

These are wicked little snakes, I have 5 of them, as far as canabilism goes, any snake would if it had the chance, ive kept these for years and not witnessed it once in my collections, and i house all mine together, only feeding is seperate, they are known to breed up to 3 times a year, whicjhmakes them really cool if you have a steady market for them, they look almost like litle pythons when adult... the females get quite thick as adults and are normally a little thicker than your average corn snake... really cool little snakes...
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Bubba117 on 12-03-2007, 10:05 PM
Re: African House Snakes(Lamprophis fuliginosus)

Neat!
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Reptile freak on 12-03-2007, 10:20 PM
Re: African House Snakes(Lamprophis fuliginosus)

Here is a link to explain just how well these snakes breed, and it also explains why they are hardier and more easily kept that corn snakes... enjoy

The African House Snake - Captive Reproduction
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Ekke on 12-04-2007, 01:14 PM
Re: African House Snakes(Lamprophis fuliginosus)

I don't know this specific sub specie but the aurora, inornatus & capensis acure naturally around here. In fact the capensis is like nearly in every back yard. It was formally know as the fuliginosus but undergone a name change.
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