green iguana (iguana iguana)

Green Iguana

(Iguana iguana)

Distribution
Iguanas are large arboreal lizards found in areas of Mexico, down to Southern Brazil, Paraguay and the Lesser Antilles. They have also been introduced into Hawaii and Florida where they are thriving and breeding well with mixed opinions from the locals. In some areas of South America this species is also sometimes referred to as the Bamboo Chicken, due to it being a delicacy.
There are currently two subspecies recognized these are (Iguana iguana iguana) and (Iguana iguana rhinolopha), these are not recognized by all experts. In captivity iguanas are usually intergrades between the two subspecies.
Prior to getting this species research as much as possible and if possible spend time with a current keeper to see if this is the species for you, it is also worth joining your local reptile society/group as they will be able to give you hints and tips (and you may be able to do the same for them).
Iguanas are currently one of the commonest abandoned reptiles in the UK, so check with your local rescue and re-home rather than buy an imported Iguana. If you want a baby Iguana then buy a UK bred Iguana as these are less jumpy and will be a lot healthier than an imported specimen.
Size
The size of your Iguana depends greatly on the country of origin and the conditions under which you keep your pet. Adult Iguana will range from 120 to 150cm (4 to 5 feet) in length although many have been known to reach lengths of 180cm (6 feet) and weigh around 2.06kg (10 lbs).
Diet
Despite much bad advice to the contrary Green Iguanas are entirely vegetarian even as youngsters.
A captive diet needs to be supplemented with a light dusting of calcium powder on the food. You should ideally be aiming for a Calcium to Phosphorous ratio of around 2:1 in the diet of iguanas, some of the links at the end go into detail of the contents of some of the foods suggested below. Ideally Iguanas should be fed as wide a variety of leaves and fruits as possible, comprising roughly of 80% leafy green vegetables, 10-15% of other vegetables and 5-10% of fruit.
Leafy matter and vegetables should include; Broad Leaved Water Cress, Mustard Cress, Nasturtiums (flowers and leaves), Dandelions (flowers and leaves, washed and from pesticide free areas), Rose petals, carrot tops, parsley, Broccoli Leaves (not the florets), Turnip greens (not the tuber), Sugar snaps, geranium, daisies, Cucumber (occasional), etc.
Fruits can include; Fresh figs, Kiwi, Banana (small doses due to high levels of phosphorous), grapes, Sliced Apple (not the seeds), Citrus Fruits, Various Squashes, Dates, Strawberries (A favourite), raspberries, etc.
Wholemeal bread can be offered a few times a week as long as it has been slightly dampened in order to prevent it swelling in the throat as it is swallowed. This is a treat that is usually relished by most iguanas.
Foods that contain high amounts of Oxalic Acid should be avoided and only given on very rare cases (usually in rescues to wean animals of them and onto a proper diet), as it binds with Calcium in the diet. Iceberg Lettuce should also be avoided as it is virtually just water and highly addictive to Iguanas, it has been compared to the Iguana equivalent of Crack Cocaine.
Foods which are high in Oxalic Acid include; Beet, Spinach, Chard, Cabbage, etc.
Other vegetable matter can also bind with Iodine and have been linked to the causing of Goitre, examples of these which should be avoided include; Broccoli florets, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Kale, Sprouts, etc.
Other foods that are toxic to Iguanas should also be avoided and these are certain fruit seeds (Apple, Apricot, Cherry, Nectarine, Peaches and Pears), Daffodil, Avocado, Eggplant (Aubergine), Rhubarb, Sage, Rosemary, Azalea, Buttercup, Lilly of the Valley, Marijuana (Sounds daft but some people have fed this!), Tulips, Poinsettia, Rhododendron, Mistletoe and Christmas cactus. Many of the previously mentioned plants are grown as houseplants so remove them to a safe place prior to allowing your iguana out for a wander in the house.
More in depth lists can be found on the Internet and in the books listed at the bottom of this page.
Requirements

• Heat Source: - The heat source should always be thermostatically controlled and guarded to prevent thermal burns. Heat sources, which can be used for this species, are reflector spot light (green or red). Ceramic or tubular heaters can also be used. Heat mats are a useful additional source of heat although care should be taken as they have been linked to ventral scale problems and some iguanas have dug into them and burnt themselves alive when the mats have been incorrectly placed (i.e. inside the vivarium).
• Ultra Violet Light Source: - This is essential for this species and the best brand to use at present is the Reptisun 10.0 or one of the many UV power bulbs. The power bulbs should only be used in larger enclosures. They should be positioned no more than 45cm away from the basking animal and left on for 10-12 hours daily. This should be replaced every 6-7 months depending on the manufacturer’s advice. Care should be taken if your reptile has unpigmented eyes (amelanistic or albinos or any other red eyed morph) as it can damage their eyes. UV lights should never be placed behind glass or plastic as this filters out the essential UV rays. Vitamin D3 supplements should not be used whilst UV lighting is used.
• Thermostat: - These should always be used on heat sources to prevent excessive temperatures damaging your reptile. Temperatures should always be monitored with thermometers internally to check the thermostat is working correctly.
• Housing: - A well-ventilated dark wooden vivarium with a glass frontage is ideal for this species. The vivarium should be situated away from drafty areas of the house and well away from any vibrations such as speakers, TVs, etc as the vibrations distress the animals. An adult would require a vivarium measuring a minimum of 6ft long by 4ft deep by 5ft high. These measurements are to be used as a guide only. The more space you provide iguanas with the better, so where possible a converted room is best. Males should not be housed together and if multiple iguanas are housed together then various basking sites should be provided at various heights, in order to prevent territorial disputes occurring. Care should be taken when situating branches in Male iguanas vivariums that they are not higher than you as height is used as a sign of dominance in male iguanas, so you should always be slightly taller than the highest branch.
• Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.
• Hides: - These are an essential part of any vivarium as they provide the animals with an area to escape from the stresses of over exposure. These should be situated at various heights. Plastic plants should be avoided as iguanas can ingest these and blockages can occur.

Water and Humidity
A large ceramic/earthenware dog bowl/heavy cat litter tray is best for these reptiles as they are harder for them to tip over in smaller enclosures. In larger enclosures a small fitted pond is excellent as these reptiles love to soak and swim if given the chance and this can help to prevent constipation and assist with ecdysis. This water should be changed daily as this is also the water they drink. It is also beneficial to mist the enclosure every other day with tepid water to maintain a moderate to high humidity level (65 – 90%). A large water bowl also helps to prevent territorial disputes with iguana colonies, as a submissive low ranking iguana will usually retreat to the water when threatened with a fight.
Temperature
A basking area of a minimum of 33°C (88°F) should be provided; this can reach a maximum of 36°C (97°F). The background temperature should range between 19°C (68°F).
Longevity
Many captive iguanas do not live in excess of 10 years due to poor husbandry. However if the correct husbandry is used then they can live for an average of between 15 and 20 years. According to James Hatfield III (In the book mentioned below) the current record for a Green Iguana in captivity is 29 years.
NB – There are a lot of things people should be aware of when contemplating owning Iguanas. The first is that during their periods human women can attract a lot of unwanted attention from male iguanas and many women have been bitten and attacked by male iguanas attempting to mate them. This usually happens from the age of sexual maturity (about 3½ to 4 years old). Some male iguanas never do this but it is best to be aware of this.
NBII - Iguanas can be trained and can make excellent pets but they are not good first time pets; remember the cute little bright green baby will grow.
Substrate
Ensure that a dry basking area is available in order to prevent ventral scale infections occurring. Large pieces of (Dust free and not pine or cedar) Bark Mulch can be used to good effect as long as the pieces are too large to avoid ingestion during feeding or feed your iguana outside the vivarium. Sphagnum peat has been used to good effect but care should be taken with this as it may inhibit bacterial development but it encourages fungal growth and is not environmentally friendly to use.
Wood Based Cat litter has been used in the past, but it tends to clump up when the iguanas are kept at the correct humidity and turn into a fine dust (which may cause respiratory problems).
If you are keeping a female iguana then a nesting chamber should be constructed (details of this are shown in Hatfield’s book) as some iguanas will retain their eggs and cause many internal problems if no nesting site is provided. Female Iguanas do not need to be mated to lay eggs (they do to lay fertile eggs of course) so be aware of this potential problem.
Corncob and wood chippings should never be used as a substrate due to the number of cases of impaction in the bowels and stomachs that have occurred when they have been ingested.
NB – Photograph donated by Jackie Hays to demonstrate the potential size of an adult male Iguana.
Map taken from http://lifemapper.org/robotfood/Reptile/Iguana%20iguana.HTM
Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts
Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Iguana_SP_iguana']
http://www.iguanaverde.com/default.asp?id=3&mnu=3
http://www.pondturtle.com/llizc.html#Iguana - Longevity information.
http://www.iucn-isg.org/index.php - Iguana Specialist Group
http://205.159.154.66/caiman/wongs.htm
http://www.iguanaanswers.co.uk/ - an excellent website on Iguana care.
www.anapsid.org
http://www.greenigsociety.org/
http://www.iguana-news.com/
http://www.baskingspot.com/iguanas/
http://marie.thoughtshop.net/sammy_j/sam.html
http://www.geocities.com/petsburgh/farm/2607/
http://www.iguanaden.org/main.htm
Green Iguana The Ultimate Owner’s Manual, By James W Hatfield III. The leading book on Green Iguana care and is recommended for any iguana keeper beginner or experienced

Photo Credit: http://www.animalweb.com

	Morph A morph is a color or pattern variation that is proven to be genetic. Common morphs include albino, anerythristic, gentically striped, Hypomelanistic, and many others. Morphs also include combinations of simple traits such as "Sunglow" which is Albino and Hypomelanistic. These traits may be recessive traits, co-dominant traits, dominant traits, or created through selective breeding (ie Pastel).