Water Dragon
(Physignathus cocincinus)
Distribution
Generally found in areas such as Thailand, China, South East Asia, Indo-Australian Archipelago and tropical rain forests.
Size
Water Dragons have a total length of about 90cm (3 Feet) the majority of which is the tail. Maturity is reached by 2 to 3 years of age.
Diet
Water Dragons are mainly insectivorous animals. Foods eaten consist of anthropods, frogs, small lizards, birds, mealworms, wax worms, black field crickets, locusts, brown crickets, earthworms, fish, pink mice and some fruit. All insects should be dusted with a good quality calcium supplement and gut loaded prior to being offered to the lizard. However, they do tend to have a habit of only eating food that moves (alive). Wriggling the dead food sometimes works but not always. Unfortunately not all of the above foods have a high nutritional content and many illnesses are due to an unfortified diet.
Requirements
- Heat Source:- This should be a guarded reflector spot bulb (either red, green or blue). Ceramic heaters can also be used to good effect. Heat mats may also be used as an extra source of heat, but they are not essential. All heat sources should be guarded and thermostatically controlled.
- UV Light Source: - Water Dragons require a Reptisun 5.0 UVB light, this should be positioned no more than 30cm away from the basking lizard. This should be left on for 8 to 12 hours a day and replaced every 6 months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. This will create a day and nighttime effect as well as give your water dragon sufficient levels of UV.
- Housing:- This should consist of a spacious dark wooden vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Juveniles would require a vivarium measuring 45cm long by 30cm deep by 45cm high (18 inches long by 12 inches deep by 18 inches high). An adult would require a vivarium measuring 120cm long by 60cm deep by 120cm high (4ft long by 2ft deep by 4ft high). These measurements are to be used as a guideline only. Some specimens head but the glass, mirrored glass can be used to reduce this or covering the exterior of the glass with painted plants/plastic plants.
- Thermostat: - An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
- Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.
- Thermometers: - One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the enclosure. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat, as these are often inaccurate.
- Hides: - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides. Artificial plants should be used with care as some have been ingested in the past and caused irreparable harm/death to some lizards.
- Climbing Facilities: - These can be branches, logs, rocks etc. Care must be taken to ensure that there are no sharp edges, which could cause injury to the animal.
Water
Water Dragons love to swim and dive into water. A large water bowl or small pool should be fitted into the base of the vivarium to enable the animal to use when needed. Daily mistings with tepid water aid in maintaining the humidity at between 65 to 85%.
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Temperature
A basking area of 31 - 34°C (86 - 92°F) is required. The background temperature should range between 28 - 29.5°C (77 - 84°F).
Longevity
If kept under the correct conditions and given the correct diet a Water Dragon can live for 10 - 15 years with some exceeding this.
Substrate
This can be anything from newspaper, brown paper or even astro turf. Sphagnum peat is useful for this species as it aids in maintaining the humidity levels. As is Large pieces of Bark mulch (dust free and cedar and pine free). Whatever you use remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease. Never feed your Water Dragon over substrate, which it might swallow. For this reason corn cob and wood chippings should not be used as substrate.
NB – Photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth.
Map taken from http://www.reptil-zoo.dk/UDB_Physignathus_cocincinus_UK.html
Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts
Stuart Dodsworth –
stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society –
www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society –
www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information –
http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Physignathus_SP_cocincinus']
www.reptilekeeper.co.uk
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