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<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Custom cage tutorial<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
Custom cage tutorial
Published by RehabRalphy
02-13-2006
Custom cage tutorial

Okay guys. For those who are less fortunate with building things. I decided on the cage I'm building at the moment to make a tutorial.

Cage demotion: 48"x24"x18"
Total cost: In the $70's
Supplies that I had to buy:
1/2" MDF Plank - $15.59
32"x14" Window - $13.49
6'x9' Roll of Linoleum - $16.97
Vinyl Adhesive - $6.97
Trowel - $2.99
1" Drywall Screws - $3.82
Undereave Vent - $1.49
Supplies I had around the house (may be added to in the future):
1 gallon Bear Paint - $10
Sealant - $2.99
Screw drivers
Jig saw
1" Drill bit
Drill bits
Pliers

Supply pictures (not all supplies are shown below)

From left to right - 1" drywall screws, trowel, vinyl adhesive
user posted image
From left to right - 1" drywall screws, trowel, vinyl adhesive, undereave vent
user posted image
36"x18" Window
user posted image
user posted image
Linoleum 6'x9' roll (picture card was bad so the pictures color turned out bad)


8'x4' Plank cut into 5 pieces.
1. 48" x 24"
2. 48" x 24"
3. 48" x 18" - will be cut into 2 pieces of 24" x 18" for the sides (ends) of the cage.
4. 46" x 18"
5. 48" x 12" - scrap. Can be used for a lip in the front of the cage or a shelf inside.

This was only some supplies, there are still other supplies not pictured
First step in the process.
1. Before you get start, unroll the linoleum and place on a flat, hard, clean, substrate. Weight it down in order to get rid of all the roll in the sheet. Top side is best facing downward. Wait a few hours (or even 24 hours for best results) in order for it to be ready to use.
2. While the lenolium is flattening out, you can be some other things in order to get things started. On the window, you must remove the screen in order to use the window as the main entrance of the cage. You can do this by pull up the edges of the screen with a pair of pliers. Its best to removed the glass before you go yanking at the window.
3. Cut the planks of MDF into the certain measurements you want. I chose a 48" x 24" x 18" cage. Above you will find each planks measurements. You may prime the planks to start if you want. The side with where the linoleum is being placed does not need to be primed, sealed, or painted. The other side can be, but its a preference. In this order is the best way to paint the outsides of the planks. Prime once(1), paint once (1), paint twice (2), seal once (1), seal twice (2), seal three times (3, isn't needed but is nice to have).
Linoleum placement, cutting, and glueing.
Once the linoleum has flattened out, you may now start the process of glueing on the linoleum to the wood, but theres a few steps before this you have to do.

1. Line up the wood planks onto the linoleum in order to find out the best way to cut out the linoleum. Once you have found the right 'pattern' or 'puzzle' the hard process comes in.
2. Make sure to line up the edges of the flattened linoleum with the cut planks of wood. This makes sure when you cut the linoleum patterns out that you get nice even cuts. Once you have the wood lined up, trace a pencil line around the outsides of the wood. Label the wood and the linoleum pattern for future glue. (*hint: Right the number on the wood the same direction as the letter on the linoleum pattern, this way it will line up correctly when gluing)

3. Take off the wood plank and set it aside. Now you can take your handy dandy cutting tool and carefully cut out the lines you drew. Its best to use a sharp blade when cutting to make the cuts even and perfect. Once you have successfully cut it out, set the cut out piece of linoleum ontop of the plank and set it aside. Once all the patterns are cut out, move to the next step.
4. Take a dry cloth and wipe all the pieces of wood and cut out pieces of linoleum really well. This way no dust or debree are on the places you will glue.
5. Time for the gluing. This can be tricking, but after the first plank and linoleum are glued, you'll get the hang of it. Trawel the glue onto the wood, then place the cut out linoleum pattern ontop of the wood. (Hints, when traweling the glue, make sure you dont get to much around the edges, this will cause oozing of the glue. Stay at least .5 of an inch away from the outsides of the wood with the glue.) Once you have layed the linoleum on top of the gluey wood, use a rolling pen to get out all the air bubbles underneath the linoleum. If any glue oozes out the sides, take a damp paper towel and whipe off the access glue. **Important: Once the glue is placed onto the wood, you only have 15 minutes in order to put on the linoleum.**
6. When all the pannels of wood are glued to the linoleum, place in an area where they will not be walked on, bumped, and make SURE they have venhilation. This is a big deal. Some glues may not smell bad, but still may have fumes. We don't want your house to go 'Ka-Boom'... Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours before the next step.

Tutorial Tools

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RehabRalphy on 02-13-2006, 09:25 PM
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PUTTING TOGETHER IT ALL:
Next steps: Screw the boards together. Well This part is pretty self-explainable. Just screw them together. Remember, you can't go overbored with screws. You want this to be sturdy. Make sure you drill pilot holes.


Now you can drill holes for your vents. I chose to use a door hole bit. Its a big circle with teeth on it used for cutting out door knob holes. I centered the holes and it came out nice. Make sure not to go to fast when drilling it out, it will start burning the MDF if your not carefull about that.


Now you can line up your exterior vents to predrill holes and make sure it looks nice. Make sure to measure and center it. This way both sides will look the same.

Time for caulking. Buy any type of clear sylicone caulking for sealing the inside corners and edges. Just squeeze a bead of caulk on the cracks and gently glide your finger down the caulk on the edges to make it nice and smooth. Make sure to get extra caulk in the corners so nothing can leak out there or get in there.
Lighting: Now you can install your lights. Simply drill a hole in the back of the cage around the top to thread your power cords through. You will probably have to splice the cords in order for it to fit through the small hole. Once you thread it through the hole, reconnect the cords and use electral tape on it so nothing can get to it. Mount your light fixture anywhere on the top of the inner part of the cage and thats it for that.

STAINING: Nows the tricky part. Choose your prefered stain. Gently STURE (not shake) the stain in the can in order to mix it. Apply the stain to the wood with a cloth. Once the area disired is covered, whipe off the access stain with a paper towel then move to the next part of the cage. Apply more coats after 6 hours of drying time inbetween coats. Keep adding coats until the color you want appears.

SEALING/POLYURETHENE: This is the HARDEST PART. Before I start, make sure you do this in a well venhilated area! Whipe down your cage with a very very lightly watered cloth on order to remove debree. Stir the slear in the can very gently, dont allow bubbles to form when sturring. Apply a coat of this to one side at a time. Make sure the side your sealing is facing upwards so no drips accure. This will take awhile but its well worth it. You DONT want to have drips on your cage. Inbetween coats, sand off the little bumps that drys on the cage with the finest sandpaper you own. Then take a tack cloth (sold at homedepot, its a sticky cheese cloth) and whipe down the spot your apply the second or third coat too. Then apply another coat. Allow the recammended drying time between coats. 2-3 coats is best. It takes at least 2 coats in order for it to become water resistant.
Once its all dried now you may start to apply the door and vents. Since everything was pre-drilled, there wont be any hassle marking out where to put it. Just screw everything on the cage.
You may apply trim to the cage in order to cover up those edges. I have not done this yet but I will. I just have not had the time to do so. Allow the cage to "air out" for a few days so theres no fumes inside the cage.




This took a lot of time to build and to type up.
Hopefully it will help anyone who is having troubles with building cages.
Just remember one phrase, "Measure twice, cut once".

Thanks,
Michael
Last edited by natas : 10-11-2006 at 02:54 PM.
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brownsfan222 on 02-13-2006, 09:31 PM
nice cage, never thought of using mdf with linoleum. you can use melamine for the cages and you wont have to stain or use linoleum, just a hint for ya.
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Shadraak on 02-13-2006, 09:40 PM
umm how do you open it? that's what i dont see lol, and instead of putting in a light inside the cage what about a UTH will that even go thru the board? i know using the shower surround it's thinner and the flexwatt doesn't have to be on as much but very nice design the front is what i was having a problem with on my design but i think you answered my question on the rest, and i was showing that i was right on how to build it yay for me.
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RehabRalphy on 02-13-2006, 09:40 PM
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I like the patterns on the linoleum and MDF is 75% cheaper than melamine
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RehabRalphy on 02-13-2006, 09:45 PM
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Oh I forgot the door part. I used a storm window for my door. Its 36" x 18" it has little latchs on the front. Problem is the whole thing glass piece comes off. I'm sure they sell windows. I'll just add some hendges onto the frame. Before attaching the window, you have to re-enforce the MDF. This way it wont buckle on you from the weight of the window. I simply bolted on 1x2's inside. Then I screwed the window onto the 1x2's. The storm window only cost me $13 opposed to a $50 real window.



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brownsfan222 on 02-13-2006, 09:46 PM
yea the linolium looks a lot better i agree, i just dont seem to like stained cages like that for some reason. you did a good job but i just like the look of the cage being all the same color
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gjmccag on 02-13-2006, 09:47 PM
very nice cage!!
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RehabRalphy on 02-13-2006, 09:50 PM
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I'm still not finished with it. Im adding trim to the outside edges. Its a darker brown color. Then I'm paint everything brown that you see white on the cage. So then it will have the 2 tone effect. Brown wood coloring and dark tan coloring.
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brownsfan222 on 02-13-2006, 09:51 PM
make sure you post pics!
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Weepngprpht on 02-13-2006, 09:55 PM
nice lokin cage i think ima have to saev that to my Word for future use..not this is what i come to this site for
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Shadraak on 02-13-2006, 09:56 PM
well with a heating light or a CHE, you would'nt have to put undertank heating huh? or thermostats, you can just use dimmers once it's "acclimated" just have a few thermom's in there.
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RehabRalphy on 02-13-2006, 09:58 PM
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I'm happy with my lights.


Thanks for all the comments!
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Shadraak on 02-13-2006, 10:02 PM
how did you attach the caging to keep him away from it? cause you gotta be able to remove it easially to change the bulb from time to time, also is there a reason why the other one is not on or caged? and the panel is it just on/off switches for the lights? that does not have an UTH correct?
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RehabRalphy on 02-13-2006, 10:05 PM
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Theres a wooden base around the cage on the lights. It unscrews to change the lights very easily. (I thought it this way before I start building, Ive built several cage.) The other isnt caged because it doesnt get used ands its only a 25 watt. Only time its on is when company is looking at him. But it only stays on for maybe 5 minutes, most of the time less than that. The switch on the front turns on the lights seperatly, and dims them too. Its a wireless light switch. It came from radio shack. Retails at $50 but I paid 50 cents for it at a garage sale. I love it.
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RehabRalphy on 02-13-2006, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadraak
how did you attach the caging to keep him away from it? cause you gotta be able to remove it easially to change the bulb from time to time, also is there a reason why the other one is not on or caged?
Please don't worry about things. I'm an experienced cage builder. lol I think I know what I'm doing but thanks for your concern. Glad to see another herper concerned about reptiles health, we need more of those type of people.
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Shadraak on 02-13-2006, 10:11 PM
Wasn't worried just curious lol so that's a wireless control guess i'll have to think of a way to wire the lights other than on off switches individually
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CreepingDeath on 02-13-2006, 10:22 PM
nice
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Rehab Ralphy on 02-13-2006, 10:34 PM
Thanks
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Shadraak on 02-13-2006, 10:38 PM
so all that's heating it is that one heating light? i guess on a dimmer it'd be perfect lol, then i could put the thermometer/hydrometers i have in there already and not have to worry about flexwatt right now, i'm thinking about putting a light like that in my tileboard cage, rather than going flexwatt, there's always someone here to keep an eye on the cages for heat/humid issues, and i dont have a thermostat, and need to make about 2 cages fast 1 atleast 6ft for judas when he gets older but may stick with just a 4ft or keep him in the aquarium he's in now, cause well, if i build him another cage, where's the aquarium i payed $150 gonna go lol, how heavy is that cage?
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